Inside Fertitta’s Deli: Shreveport’s Oldest Family Restaurant
In the heart of Shreveport, at the corner of Sam R. Fertitta Drive, sits a two-story red brick building with a sign that reads Home of the Muffy. The Muffy is more than a sandwich. It is a cultural symbol, a culinary invention rooted in family tradition, and a cornerstone of Louisiana food heritage.
Fertitta’s Deli opened in 1927 and has operated in the same location ever since. It is the city’s oldest continuously run, family-owned restaurant. What began as a neighborhood grocery store started by an Italian immigrant has become a beloved landmark and a place where family, history, and food come together in every order.
A Sandwich with Soul: The Birth of the ‘Muffy’
When I stepped inside Fertitta’s, the scent of warm bread and spiced olive salad filled the air. Behind the counter, Agatha Fertitta McCall was assembling the deli’s signature sandwich with practiced care and pride. She told me about her grandfather who built the building in 1927, and her father Sam, who transformed it into a delicatessen after taking over in 1949.
The Muffy, Fertitta’s signature sandwich, was created by chance. In the 1960s, Sam began selling muffuletta bread imported from New Orleans. One day, he made a sandwich using the bread for a visiting customer from United Gas Company.
‘He said, “Mr. Fertitta, I’ve made this sandwich kind of like a New Orleans muffuletta, but not exactly. You should try it.” So Daddy did, and the man told him it was the best sandwich he had ever eaten in his life,’
— Agatha Fertitta McCall
Sam originally had no intention of entering the sandwich business. He simply wanted to sell the bread. However, word spread quickly about the delicious creation, and customers began pouring in. The Muffy became a hit. The name itself was a practical solution. The full word ‘muffuletta’ was too expensive to spell out in neon signage, so it was shortened to Muffy.
Unlike the traditional muffuletta from Central Grocery in New Orleans, Fertitta’s version features a finely chopped olive salad that includes both green and black olives, along with unique spices passed down from Agatha’s grandmother.
‘It’s like apples and oranges. The New Orleans version uses big chunks of green olives and a thick olive oil base. Ours is all chopped up and we add black olives too. But I can’t give away the full recipe because that is a family secret,’
— Agatha Fertitta McCall
The Muffy
The sandwich includes layers of ham, salami, and mozzarella cheese, and it is heated in the oven. Instead of a sesame seed topping, the bread is dusted with cornmeal. This variation not only gives it a distinctive texture but also makes it a better option for customers with dietary restrictions.
‘A lot of people prefer the corn dusting. If they have health issues and cannot eat seeds, this lets them enjoy the sandwich without worry,’
— Agatha Fertitta McCall
Generations of Flavor and Family
Fertitta’s is more than a restaurant. It is a multi-generational story of perseverance and pride. Agatha took over the business in 1980 when her father became ill. She still lives upstairs, in the same apartment where she grew up and raised her family. Her children, Reverend Patrick Fertitta and Dr. Nina Fertitta Mitchell, now help manage the deli, continuing the tradition.
‘There is a heavy weight to running a family business that has lasted this long. Carrying that tradition is important to me,’
— Reverend Patrick Fertitta
‘It is also a joy because you know that so many generations have been touched by this business,’
— Reverend Patrick Fertitta
Walking through the deli feels like stepping into a time capsule. Much of the original signage and decor is still intact. Walls are filled with family photographs and newspaper clippings, telling the story of Fertitta’s through the years. There is even room for the fourth generation, including the grandchildren.
Regular customers are part of this story too. They have been coming back year after year, some for decades.
‘I’ve been coming here over 65 years. I came as a small child with my dad when it was just a grocery store. It’s a landmark in the community,’
— Sonia Cassidy, customer
‘There is a feeling of family. I do not know if it is the Italian side or what, but when Italians get together, it always feels like family. I am Italian on both sides,’
— McConnell, customer
Inside Fertitta’s, you are not just a patron. You are part of a living tradition.
‘There are days when I get tired. But when people start coming in, especially my regulars who have been coming once a week for years, it makes me happy and proud. It’s like a big family,’
— Agatha Fertitta McCall
New Recipes and New Roles
While Fertitta’s stays rooted in tradition, it also embraces change. Reverend Patrick Fertitta, alongside his ministry, has introduced a modern culinary twist to the menu.
His creation, the Godfather Sandwich, features trademarked alligator Italian sausage, which brings a bold flavor to the deli’s offerings.
‘The name Godfather is trademarked in Louisiana for food products. I also have the trademark on the tagline for the sausage, which is called the Boss of the Bayou,’
— Reverend Patrick Fertitta
This newer addition bridges classic family recipes with regional ingredients and modern culinary flair, proving that legacy and innovation can go hand in hand.
A Place That Tells Its Own Story
Today, Fertitta’s Deli is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, not just for its age or architecture but for its role in preserving local culture. With each visit, guests walk through nearly 100 years of history.
The deli is filled with echoes of the past. The original counter, signage, and photos create a museum-like experience, yet the atmosphere is far from frozen in time. It is vibrant and lived-in, filled with people sharing meals and memories.
Why You Need To Visit Fertitta’s Deli in Shreveport
Fertitta’s is more than a place to eat, it is a landmark of family and tradition. For almost one hundred years it has served the community while passing its legacy from one generation to the next.
Each Muffy carries the story of resilience and heritage, created with the same family olive mix that first set it apart. The walls of photographs and clippings tell the history, and the regulars who return week after week keep that history alive.
In an age of fast food, Fertitta’s offers something lasting. It is where a sandwich is still made by hand, where the past and present meet, and where every visitor is welcomed like family.
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This article originally appeared on Discoverlouisianatravel.com and was syndicated by MediaFeed.org
